Phoebe Philo is not someone most CMOs, brand managers or PR people will have heard of, but she’s someone from whom much could be learned.
After reinvigorating classic fashion label Chloé, making it cool again after a long dry spell, Philo was named artistic director of another major label: Céline. She’s so hip that Kanye West name-checks her on the first track of his latest album.
Philo is also seen as a visionary, someone who can innovate in a world steeped in tradition and custom. Her latest attempt to turn the fashion world on its head is happening off the runway, though. In fact, she’s removing the runway altogether.
Philo has decided that Céline will not take part in Paris Fashion Week with the same runway show event that every other label does, and has done for years. Instead, she’s going to stage a very intimate, informal showing. Philo has decided to go lo-fi, shunning altogether the event everyone “has” to do. (The official reason for this is that she is expecting her third child in April and a gigantic runway show would be too stressful an undertaking.)
So far, feedback from industry insiders is positive. Many have commented on how refreshing the approach is, eliminating the chaotic, scrum-like atmosphere to focus on the substance of her products instead of the dazzling lights that usually surround them. Buyers, celebrities and media will be spared a circus-like atmosphere and treated to a private, up-close viewing of the clothes.
Instead of merely reaching for the most spectacular thing her label could do to create a frenzied environment for the runway, she’s scrapping the runway in favor of more meaningful engagement with her customers.
Could it fail? Yes. If it does, some people could lose their jobs. But it could also be a stellar success, and spark a shift away from impersonal flashiness to carefully curated intimacy between brand and customer. It’s a calculated risk, but one worth taking – especially in light of how business at large is evolving.
With Phoebe Philo’s track record, expect the industry to follow her lead if this works. Because some brands lead and some follow, and Philo’s brands have always led. How about yours?